Château Le Puy Emilien 2022

Château Le Puy is an exceptional Bordeaux estate that has been continuously managed by the Amoreau family since 1610. It is situated on a limestone plateau, similar to Saint-Émilion and Pomerol, at an elevation of 110 meters, the second-highest point in the Gironde. Out of approximately 100 hectares, only 51 hectares are vineyards, with the rest preserved as forests, fields, and ponds to maintain the ecosystem. No synthetic pesticides have ever been used, and it holds Demeter biodynamic certification, with all aging processes timed according to lunar cycles.

‘Emilien’ is the flagship cuvée, named after an old family ancestor, and primarily features Merlot, with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and Carménère added. Grapes, averaging 50 years old, are entirely hand-harvested and whole-cluster fermented, then macerated for 2-4 weeks in concrete tanks with natural yeasts and no chaptalization. Afterwards, they spend 12 months in 100-year-old 50hL foudres, followed by another 12 months in used 228L barriques, and are bottled without filtration. No sulfur dioxide is used during fermentation. Since 2017, the family has opted to label their wines as Vin de France, moving away from AOC, to address climate change and allow for experimental varietal plantings.

In the glass, it displays a clear, not overly dark, ruby hue. On the nose, red plum and blackcurrant initially emerge, but soon give way to layers of mushroom, wet earth, toasted almond, dried tobacco leaf, and subtle licorice. On the palate, the extraction is not excessive, resulting in a light and transparent body, with a sparkling acidity that runs through all Le Puy vintages taking center stage. The tannins are finely integrated, and the absence of new oak allows the fruit and earth to shine through. While much more understated than contemporary Saint-Émilion and Pomerol, it is a wine that reveals more layers with each sip.